Kamloops has 4 main outdoor areas for sport climbing as well as bouldering, these areas are Roche Lake, The Beach, Prickly Pear Canyon, and Oregon Jack. These areas offer sport climbing routes as well as bouldering. Kamloops climbing has never been the most popular with Skaha Bluffs and Squamish being close enough for weekend trips, however, with distinctly different rock types and accessible locations and grades it is slowly improving. This is going to be a brief list and description of the climbing areas in Kamloops, more detailed directions and route topography can be found in the guidebook, at the end of this article. I would also like to acknowledge that I have used the CLIMB Kamloops guide book for my detailed descriptions of the road conditions, and distance of these locations. Beginners and intermediate climbers will be able to find something to work on in many of the areas, it just depends on how long you want to drive.
Roche Lake
Roche lake is the most popular climbing area for not only locals but new comers as well, which I personally can attest to. The drive is south of Kamloops and about forty-five minutes total, the first half is paved but the switches to a dirt road which can be very rocky and muddy. A four-wheel vehicle is recommended but on a dry day a regular car should make it. The drive pays off in the form of a quiet tranquil crag, being quite far of from the highway, and high quality rock. Weather is tolerable basically all season here as well due to the open wall to warm in the sun but surrounding trees to cool. Approaching the climb is very clear and easy as it is right next to the parking area, less than one minute. Routes are up to 23 meters, and grades are 5.8-5.13c offering something for everyone. A definite ‘must visit’ crag in Kamloops
The Beach
The Beach is located about half an hour west of Kamloops in the community of Savona. This drive is fully paved so there is no need to worry about what type of vehicle you take. The Beach makes a great early season area or after work, due to how exposed it is, it dries quickly but get very hot with little shade in the summer. The approach to the climbs is eight minute, not long, and opens up to routes seven to twenty meters in length and ranging from 5.4-5.11d. This area offers sport climbing as well as trad climb, don’t forget your helmet! With thirty-two climbs total you will be able to spend a whole day exploring here alone.
Prickly Pear Canyon
Definitely the most unique formation of the Kamloops crags. These basalt columns offer bolted sport climbs and trad. At just over an hour it is a bit more a drive than The Beach or Roche Lake, however the unique features are worth it in my opinion. Prickly Pear Canyon is a newer establishment, and therefore does not have a wealth of climbs quite yet. Right now there are eight to choose from, thirteen meters in length and ranging from 5.8-5.12a. It is situated in the middle of the desert, and is very exposed so is best climbed in the shoulder seasons or later in the day due to the heat. It may not have the amount of climbs other crags do but is very unique and stands out from the others.
Oregon Jack
Oregon Jack is the only bouldering area in the greater Kamloops area. It is unique not only for that reason but also because of the petroglyphs on the rock wall dating back hundreds of years. Maintaining these artifacts by avoiding touching and damaging them is extremely important to the continued approval of the indigenous communities allowing us to recreate on this land. This location is about 80 minutes west of Kamloops, The drive is fully paved until the last 13km upon which it changes to a well maintained dirt road so there is no need for a 4×4 vehicle. The approach to the climbs is less than a minute, as it is right next to the parking lot, the boulders themselves are very beginner friendly, with easy grades and flat landings. The grades range from V0-V9, bouldering has a different grade scale, for a total of 22 boulders although some are projects that are ungraded. It is not the highest quality bouldering, but your only option in our area.
Kamloops has something to offer all climbers, and a few options at that. With areas that are prime at different times you are able to find somewhere that will suit your needs all season. Let me know what areas you’ve been to, which were your favorites, and why! A big thank you to Trevor Lott who put together the CLIMB Kamloops guidebook, and has provided a free printable PDF file for people to print us and use free of charge. Happy climbing my friends, stay safe!
https://www.climbkamloops.ca/topos/Spring_2012.pdf
written by Madison McGuire